GrapeRadio
Antonio Galloni on Wine
When we last spoke with Antonio Galloni, he was happily covering the Italian wine scene for Robert Parker’s The Wine Advocate among other projects, and had just contributed to Parker’s new book “Parker’s Wine Bargains: The World’s Best Wine Values Under $25.″ So, what’s new with Antonio since then? Plenty!
In early 2011, Parker realigned The Wine Advocate regional coverage. Among the changes, was the responsibility for reviewing and reporting on the wines from California was shifted from Parker to Antonio Galloni, along with Italy, Champagne, Chablis, and the Côte d’Or. The was earthshaking news to all those who produce and consume California wines. “What will Antonio think,” “What will Antonio say,” became the questions on everyone’s minds and lips. How will he score the wines? Could he bring a Euro-centric palate to this domestic venue? Would this in turn affect the way California wines were being made?
Join us as we talk with Antonio Galloni about these and other burning questions.
For More Information:
eRobert Parker www.erobertparker.com
Sponsor: Millesima, Fine Wine Merchants: www.millesima-usa.com
Click Below to Play the Show:
Alcohol and Balance – 2011 World of Pinot Noir Seminar
Alcohol and Balance – could there be a more controversial issue for today’s wine geeks? Well, thankfully, the 2011 World of Pinot Noir held a seminar on this very contentious topic. Joining N.Y. Times columnist Eric Asimov as moderator, was an illustrious (and, we might add “balanced”) group of panel members: Jim Clendenen (Au Bon Climat), Adam Tolmach (The Ojai Vineyard), Josh Jensen (Calera), Rajat Parr (Sommelier and restaurateur), Adam Lee (Siduri), and Michael Browne (Kosta Browne).
So, how are picking decisions made? And, how do these, in turn, affect the final alcohol level of the wine? Is alcohol really just a number? Does the percent of alcohol affect the balance of the wine in the bottle? Yes, most of these questions will be answered during the seminar. And, no, boxing gloves weren’t handed out to the panelists. But, there were some strong feelings among colleagues on both sides of the issue. However, more importantly, everyone gave a good accounting of themselves. Was a final decision rendered? Well, you’ll just have to hear for yourself.
For More Information:
2012 World of Pinot Noir www.wopn.com
Sponsor: Wine Berserkers: On-Line Wine Community: www.wineberserkers.com
Click Below to Play the Show:
Wine Mojo – 2011 Hospice du Rhone
Another eagerly awaited seminar from the 2011 HdR was this in-depth look at the Central Coast wines of Joey Tensley (Tensley Wines) and the Sonoma County wines of Morgan Twain-Peterson (Bedrock Wine Co.). Many of the attendees were probably already familiar with Tensley’s wines, but this was a chance to get the seemingly taciturn winemaker talking about his methods. Although Twain-Peterson’s Bedrock wines have been a fairly hot topic on the internet boards of late, this was something of an introduction to his wines. The avatar/icon of both wineries is eerily similar – featuring a grayscale sketch of a vine and its root system.
Joey Tensley began his career in the wine business in 1993. After serving stints as cellar-rat at Fess Parker and assistant winemaker at Babcock, Joey was then hired in 1998 as assistant winemaker at Beckmen Vineyards. It was a fortuitous move, since it introduced him to Beckmen’s speciality – Rhone varietals. Steve Beckmen also offered him space to launch his own label, and Joey began Tensley Wines. Three years later, after growth from 100 cases to 700 cases, he decided to move into his own winery and devote all of his time to his eponymous label.
From the beginning, Joey decided to produce only vineyard-designated Syrahs. He also decided that those Syrahs would all be priced the same and made in the same fashion. He used 30% whole cluster fermentation, three times daily hand punch-downs, and very little or no new oak.
But, never say never, and Tensley finally introduced a white Rhone blend, the Tensley Blanc (65% Grenache Blanc; 35% Roussanne). He also introduced a Grenache-Syrah blend named for his niece. But otherwise, the line-up remains the same: only vineyard-designated Syrahs, made in exactly the same way and all priced the same. Original production of 100 cases has steadily moved up to the current 4,000 cases.
It could easily be said that Morgan Twain-Peterson was literally born into the wine business. In fact, he was born at home in Sonoma, Ca. to parents Joel Peterson and Kate Twain. Largely raised at his father’s Ravenswood Winery, Morgan was obviously exposed to wine and wine tasting from the get-go. In fact, Morgan began making small lots of Pinot Noir when he was 5 years old, from lots given to him by the Sangiacomo family. Yes, implausible as it may seem, he made his first wine at the age of five!
After going off to school as an undergraduate at Vassar and a graduate student at Columbia University, Morgan returned home to Sonoma County in 2005 to work harvest at Ravenswood. Afterward, he spent time as a visiting winemaker at Hardy’s Tintara Winery in McLaren Vale, also spending a few highly educational days with Drew and Rae Noon at Noon Winery. In the fall of 2006, he was a visiting winemaker at Chateau Lynch-Bages in Pauillac.
When not making his own wine, Morgan is a manager of his family’s Bedrock Vineyards in Sonoma Valley, and a part of Sunbreak Vineyard Services L.L.C, a vineyard management company run by Diane Kenworthy and Robert Burney. He has also passed the Master of Wine exam and upon successful completion of the dissertation will become one of less than thirty American M.W.’s – and, probably one of the youngest, too.
Sponsor: Wine Berserkers: On-Line Wine Community: www.wineberserkers.com
Click Below to Play the Show:
Conversation with Louis-Fabrice Latour, President of Maison Louis Latour
Louis-Fabrice Latour is the seventh generation to run the family-owned Louis Latour business, taking over as President in 1999. Born in Beaune in 1964, he is the son of Louis Latour, current Chairman of Maison Louis Latour. Louis-Fabrice is president of the association of Burgundy négociants and president of the French national wine and spirit exporters association (FEVS).
Louis Latour has been a négociant-éleveur since 1867, and today produces 105 different wines. The two sides of the business consist of Domaine Louis Latour (wines from Louis Latour’s own vineyard holdings in Burgundy) situated in the medieval village of Aloxe-Corton, and Maison Louis Latour (a portfolio of wines from sourced grapes and wines that are blended to a style) headquartered in a beautiful 17th century house on Rue des Tonneliers in the heart of Beaune.
Join us in a fascinating and openly frank session with Louis-Fabrice, covering topics such as his family legacy, the role of négociants in Burgundy, vintages in Burgundy, and the current state of Burgundy exports to the United States. Of course we had to have some appropriate libations during the conversation, and Louis-Fabrice adds an interesting running commentary about the two wines we sampled: 2004 Louis Latour Corton Charlemagne and 2009 Louis Latour Marsannay.
For More Information:
Maison Louis Latour www.louislatour.com
Sponsor: Millesima, Fine Wine Merchants: www.millesima-usa.com
Click Below to Play the Show:
2011 Hospice du Rhone Seminar – The Rhone Valley
The first seminar from the 2011 Hospice du Rhone, was designed as an introduction to the Rhone Valley at large, the 2nd largest wine producing region in France. As with an introduction to anything, there is no way to fully cover the Rhone Valley in a single seminar. Thus, three producers were selected to discuss the region and present some of their wines.
Michel Gassier discussed his Château De Nages. Michel described how his 70-hectares of Château de Nages is planted with Syrah, which seems to excel in the soil, creating dark, concentrated, tannic grapes, while the Grenache is reserved for the poorer soils which temper its natural growth. In addition, Mourvèdre seems to add a spicy complexity to the finished wines. Michel discovered that certain parcels of his had a predilection for Roussanne, as well as Grenache Blanc to round out his white blends. He also described Costières de Nîmes at the southern most vineyard of the Rhone Valley, where Rhone varieties are planted on the stony alluvial despoits of the Rhone River, and dry winds of the Mistral blow regularly. He also explained something less intuitive than you might think – how the heat of the day becomes cool at night to help keep the wines from this region fresh. Apparently, the top layer of stones stores up the heat of the sun. Then at night, the heat is released by the stones accentuating the natural convection caused by the cool sea air that comes in from the Rhone Delta called the Petite Camargue. The warm rising air displaces the cooler air above it, forcing the cool air downward. As a result, the temperature range between day and night is increased.
Next up was Nicolas Haeni, of Domaine de Cabasse. The Alfred Haeni family moved from Switzerland to Séguret in 1990, and operate both a winery and a hotel. In 2004, Nicolas took over management of the winery, and continued in his father’s tradition. The growing area extends across twenty hectares and various appellations: Séguret, Sablet Côtes du Rhône Villages A.O.C., and Gigondas AOC. He seemed to love their location in Séguret in the Provençe, a region where the Romans planted vineyards. Jucunditas (Latin for “joie de vivre”), is now known as Gigondas. Nicolas described their most recent challenge – the terracing encompassing 3.7 hectares in Séguret, which were laid out in 2005 and planted in 2006. They were able to terrace the mountain slope while at the same time taking into consideration the landscape’s view and the risk of erosion. All steps of the terracing were measured by laser and have a slope of three percent. The drainage is first led to the crest of the hill before it flows over the terracing. These specifications qualified them for the EU-supported Priorat Life Project. The terracing also afforded very dense planting.
The last panelist was Albéric Mazoyer, of Domaine Alain Voge in Cornas. Albéric is Alain Voge’s partner and operating winemaker. Albéric now runs the estate. Alain excelled in conventional grape-growing, but Albéric convinced him to go biodynamic. Voge has 6.5 ha of Syrah in Cornas AOC, 4 ha of Marsanne in St Péray AOC, 1 ha of Syrah in St. Joseph AOC, and a few more Syrah vines in the CdR. The Syrah vines are planted in decomposed granite, known locally as gore, on some of the most beautiful hillsides in the Cornas appellation. In the winery, the Syrah grapes used for the red wines are destemmed. Fermentation is done in small (30-50 hl) stainless-steel vats; temperatures are controlled, and caps are punched once or twice daily. Ageing is done in oak barrels for 14-24 months, according to the “strength” and requirements of each wine. For the white wines, the grapes are pressed whole. Alcoholic and malolactic fermentation is done in barrels for Fleur de Crussol and Terres Boisées, then the wine is aged on lees for 12-16 months. The Harmonie cuvée is vinified then aged on lees in vats only for 10 months.
For More Information:
Hospice do Rhone www.hospicedurhone.com
Sponsor: Pinpoint Technologies – Mailing List Source: www.pinpoint-tech.com
Click Below to Play the Show:
