The Next Big Thing …
Yes, I’m partial to this new and ancient area, but I truly love the styles of wine coming out of Central Europe and it’s time for them to re-emerge on to the global market. It has already started in Europe and only a few gutsy importers are bringing them into the United States. Okay, I’m one of them, it’s easier to say gutsy than naïve. So why are Central European Wines the next big thing?
Well, it has Mediterranean climate, rich soils from the ancient Carpathian Basin (sea bed of the long gone Panonnion Sea), volcanic, shale, sandstone and limestone soils that produce complex wines where the finish evolves making your taste buds thirst for more. They are of the old world style, but made with new world technology.
Besides the soils and winemakers with generations of experience and new investments over the past 20 years … what else makes the regions of Central Europe standout? They have uniqueness. Notable styles such as the Rebula, Amphora, and Aszú as well as delectable unknown varietals such as a Juhfark (ewe-fark), Kékfrankos and Furmint. The regions are also organized and the countries have adopted strict quality control measures. Both Hungary and Slovenia have based their quality system on the French Appellation Controlee system.
-
Villány-Siklos Region, Hungary – Notably the Red Wine region of Hungary is producing fabulous, silky age worthy Cabernet Francs, as well as bringing back indigenous grapes like the Kadarka which produces a complex spicy red wine and the Kékfrankos (respectively the same as the german Blaufränkisch). This region is winning medals at the prestigious Decanter World Wine Awards and receiving investments from large French and American investors.
-
Tokaj Region, Hungary – The area famous for its succulent botrytis nectar famously known as Aszú. The area is so famous that most people refer to the wine as Tokaj after the name of the region. However, the wine is actually an Aszú style usually made with the Furmint or Hárslevelű varietal; the region is Tokaj. The Aszú wines are measured by the number of puttonyos of Botrytis grapes used during the wine making process; generally 1 to 6 puttonyos. A puttonyos is a 25 kg basket used during grape harvest. The long, sunny and humid autumns encourage the Botrytis, but not every year produces enough Botrytis to make high quality Aszú wines; therefore, increasing the value of these cherished Aszú vintages. The winemakers of the Tokaji region successfully sued and won exclusivity of the word Tokaj furthering the tight quality controls and uniqueness of Aszú wines. However, the Tokaji winemakers are using the beautiful Furmint & Hárslevelű varietals to also produce amazing elegant dry Furmint and Hárslevelű wines.
- Goriška Brda wine district, Slovenia – This tiny country is producing some high powered boutique wines. This particular wine district produces unbelievably aromatic dry whites that are age worthy and robust reds. One of my favorites is the dry Rebula with an aromatic nose, citrus and peach on the palate with a lovely crisp dry finish. There is also the Amphora style Sivi Pinot which has such a range of flavors and aromas that keeps you coming back for more. Many of their vineyards are in Italy’s Friuli -Venezia-Giulia wine region (Northeast corner of Italy) and their cellars and homes are in Slovenia. This is because after WWII the border for Yugoslavia was drawn and many homes were separated from their agricultural land.
If you haven’t ventured out to try wines from Central Europe I strongly suggest it. They’re fun and delectable. The really nice ones usually fall in the $20 and higher range. Generally, this is because the dollar is so weak against the euro and they’re limited production. For example, there were only 142 cases made of the Erzsébet Aszú we import, but my it’s delicious. Yes, I am biased, but I wouldn’t have imported it if it wasn’t good … there is nothing worse than being left with bad wine to drink!
Katy Bendel, Founder of CarpathianWines.com, is located in San Diego, CA
They import, distribute and sell online extraordinary boutique wines that they have personally hand selected.
- Carpathian's blog
- Login or register to post comments















