Amari, part of the larger “aperitivo/digestivo” family of quintessential Italian liqueurs have long been the perfect closing to any decent Italian meal.

These amaro liqueurs, literally meaning “bitter” by name, have roots in Greek and Roman times, when they were used as aids in alchemy, the practice of making gold out of other less precious metals and elements.  Luckily, after the frenetic interest in alchemy began to wane, the alchemists maintained that these complex elixirs they'd created still had medicinal properties and utility in society.  They were quite right, in fact… as the concoctions certainly aided digestion and invigorated the body and induced a state of wellness (thanks in part to 20-30% alcohol content they possessed.)

The history of amari is linked with the early spice and tea trades. On the spice trading routes, Italian merchants encountered a number of new exotic foods and spices, and brought many of their finds back with them. Herbalists and monks, it is said, were among the early adapters of the strange new herbs, making tinctures and tonics that were believed beneficial to the body and overall health.

You can see a regional trend as these ingredients are blended,  taking the characteristic spice, fruit or vegetable that is distinct to the region, thus making it unique to that area. For example, the mountain honey used to gently sweeten Amaro Sibilla (made by the Muccia-based Varnelli distillery) is made from pollen found only in those mountains, and Averna, one of the most successful amari in Italy, comes from Sicily, where the addition of local orange and lemon peels imparts a warm citrus character.

Several dozen amari are produced and sold in Italy and still many more are made throughout Europe. Other amaro-producing countries include Hungary (Zwack Unicum), the Czech Republic (Rudolf Jelinek) and Serbia (Gorki List), to name a few.  Even Germany's Jägermeister, the denizen of U.S. bars and nightclubs, is perhaps the most famous amaro known to Americans.  However, no country can match Italy for the sheer variety of digestive preparations available, and for good reason.  Italians view a smoothly running digestive system as crucial to good health and happiness, and therefore offer dozens of countermeasures for keeping distress in check.

At Pizzeria and Trattoria Mozza, the new Los Angeles venture from Mario Batali, Joseph Bastianich and Nancy Silverton, you can find an extensive amaro program.  The wine director treats amaro much like wine when it comes to educating the service staff at Mozza, rotating different amari brands through staff training on an almost weekly basis.  This is a trend I am seeing more and more in California, New York and even Chicago.  The amaro culture has certainly developed quickly in the U.S., at least partially attributed to a Fernet Branca drinking tradition made famous by the San Francisco food and drink service industry. This convention quickly spread from coast to coast, and I have to admit, I even do shots of Fernet regularly on the insistence of some bartender friend of mine when I’m out on the town. 

Finally, there is the recent revival of mixology and the rebirth of the carefully handcrafted cocktail.  So many great restaurants and bars are now using amari in their cocktail recipes, even making their own housemade bitters and syrups to accent the drink… and it’s quite exciting.  Due to the mysterious nature of the numerous amari ingredients (many are kept secret), and the creativity with which they are paired with mixers and other spirits, cocktail menus seem to be growing steadily with many new and exciting concoctions.  We’re the winners, my friends, as availability of these wonderful liqueurs becomes more widespread and they no longer are the obscure, colorful bottles relegated to the back dusty shelf in bars, restaurants and little Italian markets. 

Amaro Nonino ($42) A lighter style of amaro made in Friuli at the Nonino distillery. Its flavors are warm, with a gentle spiciness and smooth texture. The spice character lingers on the finish, proof that Nonino is one of the more elegant amari on the market.

Amaro Lucano ($26) The #1 selling amaro in Italy.  A less bitter amaro than some other Italian examples, though it is not exactly “sweet”.  The recipe is a fiercely guarded trade secret known only to the original family who still runs the company, and it consists of various herbs and roots from the Basilicata region (aka Lucania.)  It has a light body and can be used as a digestivo, or an aperitivo.   30% alcohol

Amaro Averna ($35) A sophisticated and complex amaro that hails from Sicily. The addition of blood orange and lemon peels to the aromatic herbs used to make this amaro adds a bright and refreshing character. Averna is widely considered to be one of the most versatile Italian amari.

Campari ($26) One of the earliest amari to be commercialized globally.  Bright red and quite bitter, due to use of Bahamanian cascarilla bark in the steeping process.  Other ingredients are kept secret.  Typically mixed with soda or orange juice, or in a the famous Negroni (Campari, gin and sweet vermouth.)

Cynar ($22) The earthy flavors in this herbal amaro are enhanced by the flavors of the artichokes used in its production. Cynar also has a relatively low alcohol level (around 17%), making it a popular amaro for cocktails, as well as a style of amaro that's enjoyable as an aperitivo.

Fernet-Branca ($30) A pungent and black drink made in Milano and considered by many to be the benchmark Italian amaro. Flavors of anise, cardamom, myrrh, aloe, rhubarb and saffron add complexity to this forceful drink.

Amaro Ramazzotti ($24) One of the more popular Italian amaro brands, Ramazzotti is made in Milano. The balance between bitter and sweet in this aromatic amaro feels almost seamless, while the snappy flavor of fresh ginger lingers on the finish.

Mike Mollica is an independent food & wine journalist for the "Italian American Community News", author and publisher of the blog "Mike's Mostly Food and Wine Blog", and is a blog contributor to VinVillage.com.